Multistrada 1200 Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change
Ducati Multistrada 1200 / MTS1200 Motorcycle Oil Change + Checking The Oil Level + Other Engine Oil Related Info
By AndyW 12 Jan 2020
The Ducati Maintenance Schedule recommends changing the engine oil and engine oil filter at the scheduled 12000km (7500m) service intervals. I believe that the oil net filter / oil screen filter should be checked/cleaned at the first service (1000km / 600m) and every other oil change thereafter.
MTS1200 Oil Change / Service Intervals / Maintenance Schedule
Mileage shown in Km (12000Km = 7500 miles approx, 7456 if you want to be pedantic:-)
Ducati Recommended Engine Oil (and engine oil viscosity advice)
Ducati recommends the use of SHELL Advance Ultra 4 (but other manufacturers make the same specification motorcycle engine oils!)
Quantity – some confusion here, although by topping up with small amounts of oil and rechecking the site glass after it’s had time to drain to the sump, no issue:
The Multistrada Owners Manual states: “Lubrication circuit SHELL – Advance Ultra 4 – 4.10 cu. dm (litres)“
Elsewhere I’ve seen 3.4ltrs quoted and on doing an oil and filter change myself the final quantity used was 3.6ltrs (see comments below). It could well be that the volume stated in the manual is for a new engine build and is not the amount required for an oil change.
The best engine oil for the Multistrada 1200
If you can’t be bothered to read through all the forum threads and all the content in this article then just grab a bottle of quality 15w50 oil in the following link. I order all my oils from here and they offer free next day delivery too.
Engine Oil Viscosity – SAE 15W-50
The other viscosity values shown in the table can be used if the local average temperature falls within the limits specified for that oil viscosity
Ducati Multistrada 1200 engine oil viscosity chart
(ambient climate temperature vs recommended viscosity of oil to use)
Checking engine oil level (fig. 188)
Engine oil level can be checked through the sight glass (1) provided on the clutch cover. When checking oil level, the motorcycle should be perfectly upright and the
engine cold. The oil level should be between the two marks next to the sight glass. If the level is low, top up with SHELL Advance Ultra 4 engine oil. Remove the filler plug (2) and top up to correct level. Replace the filler cap.
Other Multistrada 1200 Engine Oil Facts & Info:
Important – Engine oil and oil filters must be changed by a Ducati Dealer or authorised Service Centre at the intervals specified in the scheduled maintenance table reported in the Warranty Booklet.. (the Ducati Multistrada Owners manual states!)
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE LIGHT (RED).
Illuminates when engine oil pressure is too low. It must turn on at Key-On, but must turn off a few seconds after the engine has started. It may come on briefly if the engine is very hot, but should go out again as engine speed increases.
Do not rev up the engine when it is cold. Allow some time for the oil to warm up and reach all points that need lubricating.
Ducati Multistrada 1200 / MTS1200 – Changing the Engine Oil & Filter
Change the oil when the engine is warm (but with the engine stopped!), best to take the bike for a decent run so that it’s up to normal running temperature – tbh I often just let the bike idle for a while in the garage until the dash temperature guage shows normal running temperature (doors open!….exhaust fumes are noxious!!). Warm engine oil is more fluid and will drain more rapidly and completely.
What you’ll need
- Allen keys – 3mm, 4mm, 5mm and 6mm
- Torx T30 key (**see comment below)
- 12mm ring spanner or socket
- Filter removal tool
- Small funnel and container to catch the draining oil
- Plenty of rags / cleaning cloth
- 4 litres of engine oil
- Ducati oil filter and new drain plug washer
** Sept2011 – from ‘djgarrett21’ (aka Dave): “I recently changed my oil on my MTS and discovered my drain bolt wasn’t a hex but actually a T30 Torx…“
I have never seen reference to the sump plug being a Torx fitting before now….could this be a non standard part fitted by the Dealer for some reason (e.g. if they rounded out the original!!) or possibly an ‘update’ to recent bikes?.
…and parts (EU part numbers….may differ elsewhere worldwide;-)
- Drain plug washer / copper seal/gasket – 852.5.042.1A
- Net filter 894.1.024.1A
- and Drain plug – 893.2.006.2A (if required)
NB: if you have a centre stand fitted it has to be removed before the bottom belly pan plate / sump guard / bash plate can be removed! See here.
The oil can be changed without removing the bash plate, main stand if fitted etc (see comment here) – there’s a drain plug access hole and the filter can be removed with the front plate mounting released. But removal is recommended! – no risk of spent oil sitting on the top side of the bash plate, plus access to clean areas not usually accessible and much of the time taken to remove the centre stand and bash plate is recouped by easier access for the oil and filter change. See discussions on the Ducati.ms forum 😉
Torque settings (see here for Torque Settings lists)
- Sump Drain Plug – 20Nm (14.8lbft)
- Oil Filter – 11Nm (8lbft)
- Oil pick-up gauze filter cover bolts – 14Nm (10.3lbft)
Remove the two belly pan side panels and sump guard / base plate:
(Left) Allen bolts – 3mm x 2, 4mm x 1
(Right) Allen bolts – 3mm x2, 4mm x 1
(Base) Allen bolts – 3mm x1, 6mm x 2 and 12mm nut
The type of oil filter removal tool (oil filter socket wrench tool) you’ll need is shown below, to fit the size of oil filter Ducati use (typical motorcycle oil filter):
|Oil Filter||Dia. (Flats)||# of Flats||Height (mm)|
|Ducati 444.4.003.5A||74/76 mm||8||67.75|
…the adjustable type of oil filter tool shown in the photo above (bottom, centre’ish) is no good as it fouls the sump (I found out after taking the photo;-) …..good job I also had one of these 🙂
Ducati Oil Filter Tool – Multistrada 1200 / MTS1200 (also sutable for Ducati 748 / 916 / 848 / 1098 / MONSTER / SS): Fits Ducati Original Filter part numbers 444.400.34A and 444.400.35A – 8 ‘flats’ / 76mm diameter. Available on eBay from allthingsvolvo (NB: Quote ref: MTS-INFO when you buy;-)
With a suitable container beneath the bike (an old plastic kitchen washing up bowl is great;-) remove the drain plug (base of the sump / on the very bottom-most section of the sump, closer to the left side of the bike, you will see (looking up) a flat head Allen bolt) with it’s washer / copper seal from the oil sump and allow the oil to drain.
The plate held by four Allen flat-head bolts is the access cover for the oil net filter / course oil screen filter – see below re checking and cleaning.
Undo and remove the oil filter, more oil will drain.
Oil will continue to trickle out the drain hole and filter mounting for a while….by moving the bike from workshop stand to side stand for a few minutes and back again, you’ll get some more oil to drain 😉 (take care or you end up with oil all over the place!)
Remove any metallic deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug.
…with a clean cloth or an air duster….
…clean around the sump drain hole, refit the drain plug and tighten to 20Nm. Clean around the oil filter mounting…
Before fitting the new oil filter top it up with some clean oil…..add small quantities slowly, leave a few moments for the oil to soak into the filter elements and top up. Repeat until oil remains at the neck of the threaded mounting hole….approx 200ml in total.
Lubricate the rubber seal of the new filter with a light smear of clean engine oil before screwing the cartridge into place. Tighten to the specified torque, 11Nm.
Refill the engine with fresh oil – use of a small funnel makes this a lot easier and saves spillage. Add oil slowly to allow it to drain through to the sump as you poor or air escaping via the filler hole may cause a ‘blow back’ (Ooo…..nasty! lol). Wait a few moments before adding a little more checking the oil level sight glass all the time. Top up until oil shows at the max oil level indicator mark.
Refit the oil filler cap, start the bike and run for a few moments checking to make sure there are no leaks. Stop the engine and give the motor a few minutes for the oil to drain down. Now, whilst watching the oil level site glass, SLOWLY add more oil if necessary until it reaches the max mark in the site glass.
You should use between 3.4 litres and 3.6 litres of new oil including the 200ml or so used to pre-fill the new oil filter;-)
Clean all those hard to get to / usually unaccessible places before refitting the belly pan parts. Take the bike for a short ride, allow to cool before checking all parts previously removed and the oil level.
** Dispose of used oil in an environmentally friendly manner.
Comment (bu Ducati.ms member ‘Epee’): “Hey, no engineer here. But I like to ride, more than wrench… You can do an oil change without taking everything off.
I have had all 3 bash plates off before, on my ST (yes, center stand removal too), what a pain in the A$$.
I’ve had the 600mile service done, and obviously they used the shorter oil filter.
So I just removed the Right side (rear brake side [belly pan piece]) and with a little care and effort and much, much less time and hassle, I did the oil change without removing all the other plates, stands, springs, hose guides and such. You’ll need to get creative with some oil funneling instead of just dropping out the old oil. But it sure was worth it to me. I used a simple band type oil wrench, I have several and choose the smallest with the thinnest band to fit under the filter. Loosened the bottom bolt on the main bash plate to get a little extra wiggle room.
Don’t flame me for being lazy, just putting it out there, it can be done.” [back]
Ducati Multistrada 1200 / MTS1200 Oil Screen Cleaning
(Oil pickup gauze filter)
NB: Re parts image above – Sep2011, Ducati have now introduced a ‘crush’ gasket
for the course oil screen cover plate – see below.
Every two oil changes, clean the oil pickup gauze filter.
Having drained the old engine oil, undo the four bolts (16) securing the outer cover / cap (19). The cover will remain held in place by gasket sealant, carefully use a razor blade or similar to break the seal. Carefully remove all traces of the old sealant from the sump and cover plate with your razor blade ready for refitting.
Take out the filter element (23), check the O-rings (2 ans 4) and replace if necessary. TBH, for the sake of the small expense, buy new ‘O’ rings ready and change anyway.
Inspect the filter for any debris, swarf etc which may indicate problems with the engine e.g. early warning of / a precursor to a bearing failure. Clean the filter with petrol and compressed air. Take care not to damage the gauze.
Refit the gauze filter and O-rings, apply gasket sealant (oil and heat proof ‘liquid gasket) – take care to not over apply. Refit the 4 oil pick-up gauze filter cover bolts and tighten to 14Nm.
** Dispose of used oil in an environmentally friendly manner. **
Find your nearest oil bank / recycling centre (UK): www.oilbankline.org.uk
Update Sep2011 – whilst Ducati’s original instructions stated that the course oil screen cover plate should be sealed with a silicone based ‘liquid gasket’ type sealant they have now introduced the use of a ‘crush’ type gasket (not reusable;-) part number 78810651A
Oil Pickup Filter Screen Cover Plate – Sealant versus Gasket
As already mentioned the oil pickup filter screen access/securing plate is sealed with a ‘liquid’ (gel / paste) gasket sealant but some 1098/1198 model engines have an actual replacable gasket.
Why the change? (answers on a postcard please!). So the question arises could a 1098 cover plate with a ‘proper’ gasket seal be used on the MTS1200? The quick answer, don’t know!……but we have a man on the case 🙂
12Jan2011: Email from Ducati.ms Forum member ‘rummaggio’ (aka Keith):
Andy, I did some research with the spare parts manuals…
The 2008 1098, 1198 and above use a different oil secreen then the MTS1200and the larger o-ring is different as well. The smaller o-ring is the same across all the models.
The 2007 1098 used the same oil screen and O-ring configurations as the newer SBKs, but also has a gasket, which the newer 1098/1198 do not.
The questions that still exist are:
- are the bolt patterns the same with the SBK
- can the MTS1200 use the 2007 1098 gasket in lieu of the Ducati Silver sealant
- if the MTS can use the gasket from the 2007 1098, does the oil screen and larger o-ring need to be the same as the SBK series?
I stopped at the Ducati Dealer and they said they would investigate when customer bikes come in for oil changes. The did note that the MTS1200 no longer has protruding sump cover bolts as the SBK/SF had.
The tech that I spoke with agreed that the need to use sealant for an oil change on an adventure touring bike is certainly not preferred. Will keep you updated.
The next image is included just for the hell of it!……..
I mentioned cleaning earlier 🙂
Before (despite rear section of front mudguard being fitted, plus a ‘mud flap’)…..
Partial cleanup prior to oil change…
…and after a bit more cleaning following the oil change 😀
See also: BMW R1200GS Alternative Engine Oils & Other FAQ
Lots of relevant information for Multistrada (any motorcycle) owners
See also: BMW / Castrol Motorcycle Engine Oil – Q&A
Lots of relevant information for Multistrada (any motorcycle) owners