Fitting Hepco & Becker Crashbars / Engine Bars

Fitting Hepco & Becker Crashbars / Engine Bars

Author: ‘Clive’ 06/08/2004
(with minor updates/changes and photos by AndyW)
View ukGSer forum thread for additional comments: Crashbars 1200 
(external link “Fitting Hepco & Becker Crashbars to a R1200GS – notes” page 3 onwards)

AndyWusual warning, refer to the BMW workshop manual.
Torque values

You will need…
10mm socket
Selection of Allen socket drivers to fit Torque wrench
Torque Wrench capable of 12-48 NM
Medium file (or coarse sandpaper)
55 Torx key
30 Torx key

You may need…
10mm spanner
Large Rubber Mallet
Block of 2×2 inch wood approx 18inches long.
Trolley jack

RHS = right hand-side of the bike when viewed from riders position
LHS = left hand side of the bike when viewed from riders position

1. Study the supplied instructions – mine were in German – the important thing is to unpack all the bolts, spacers, washers etc and measure each one (especially the spacers) – find each on the diagram and place ready for use later.

2. Dry fit the bars off the bike first. You will may need to carefully sand the ends of the middle section to remove some of the paint/powder coat (or use a Dremel sanding tool on the inner surfaces of the connecting side bars) as the fit can be excessively tight. Don’t over do it as a close fit is required and use a dab of grease to enable a smooth connection. Once together dry, also insert and screw in half way the bolts (Allen studs on later engine bar kits) that join the middle section with the end sections – this removes the paint from the threads inside the middle section and makes it easier to do up later. Again, some grease is a good idea.
NOTE that the middle section has two welded brackets on it – the longer one goes to the LHS and therefore the shorter one to the RHS!. The RHS bracket also has a kink in it wheras the LHS is straight.

3. Bike on centrestand with room to work both sides – a second pair of hands will make life easier 😉

4. Just under the LHS of the fuel tank there is a small Torx 30 bolt attaching an oil feed pipe to the engine – remove this bolt.

5. Loose fit middle section – the RHS is bolted to a captive nut that is part of a (black) bracket already on the bike just under the RHS fuel tank, using the shorter M6 Allen bolt. The LHS is bolted where the Torx 30 bolt was removed from above with the longer M6 Allen bolt together with smallest spacer. Do the Allen bolts up finger tight.

6. NOTE – do not remove both Torx 55 frame/engine mounting bolts either side of the bike at the same time – not sure what would happen but I suspect it would not be good.

7. Remove LHS Torx 55 engine mounting bolt. Insert appropriate spacer (just stands approx 1-2 mm proud) – offer up LHS section of the engine bars – with a limited amount of twisting and use of rubber mallet, force the LHS section of the bars onto the middle section (good to have someone hold the middle section) – may need more grease – ensure the holes of the LHS bars are near where they will be bolted i.e. you don’t want to damage anything while concentrating on the mallet action. (TIP: wrap a piece of cloth over the crash bar)

8. (N/A with Allen head stud kits – NB The bolt is replaced by an Allen head stud that screws in to a captive nut on later kits).  Loose fit (finger tight) the connecting 10mm bolt (NOTE that I didn’t’t do this until last and had to mess about with a trolley jack, block of wood and a larger rubber mallet to get the holes to line up).

9. Loose fit (finger tight) the large replacement M12 Allen bolt.

10. Fit the other spacer and M10 Allen bolt to the LHS in the (empty) threaded hole. Finding the correct angle of attack for sliding the spacer between the bars and engine can be tricky, still, the sump bash plate usually catches it and provides a small entertainment poking it out with a stick.

11. Eat bacon sandwich provided by your wife.

12. Repeat the procedure for the RHS section of bar – where this joins to the middle section there is a slotted hole. Again, may need trolley jack etc to line up holes for the 10mm connecting bolt. (Allen head stud in later kits)

TIP: Before tightening anything finally check alignment of the engine bars and that the mid section is fully inserted in to the side bars.

13. Tighten to torque the 10mm connecting bolts.

14. Tighten to torque(s) the lower M12 and M10 Allen bolts both sides.

15. Tighten to torque the upper M6 Allen bolts both sides.

16. Admire handiwork, realise that coffee provided by wife along with bacon sandwich has gone cold. Drink it anyway.

17. Re-check torques after a few miles riding.